Men’s fashion

On the list of potential men’s style icons, who springs to mind for you?

Is it the classics; James Dean, David Bowie, Marlon Brando… or, do you think of more recent icons such as Idris Elba, Zayn Malik or David Beckham? 

Most people lean toward one or two favorites because those people have a style that speaks to them. While many manage to somehow look “effortless”, the truth is that quite a bit of effort goes into choosing what they wear in the first place. (And of course, most of these guys have or had the benefit of a personal stylist!).

Here are some popular men’s style icons and our suggestions for getting the look:

#1. James Dean: Casual-cool

James Dean’s casual-cool and simple, elegant style represented rebellion for youth of the 1950s. He managed to look effortlessly stylish both on and off-screen and was immortalized for that style due to his untimely death at just 24 years-old.

There are a few, specific clothing items that are always associated with Dean, for example, the black, chunky-knit turtleneck sweater. He sat for an iconic photoshoot with Roy Schatt which was known as “The Torn Sweater.” These images endure today.

What would James Dean pair with that turtleneck? Another classic he wore is blue jeans. We’re not talking about the super-skinny styles often seen today, but more of a classic straight leg in a navy denim.  From our catalog, see the Alberto Washed Denim Slim Fit jeans, pictured below.

Of course, James Dean is also synonymous with the classic white t-shirt. This can also be paired with those jeans for a very simple, yet stylish look. Depending on your body type, a slimmer fit can be a very flattering style, achieving a smooth silhouette. For a true James Dean look, wear with black combat boots or Converse high-tops, like what he wore in Rebel Without a Cause. For a look that will work for many “business casual” offices, wear with your dress shoes.

In terms of outerwear, the bomber jacket worn in Rebel Without a Cause is probably his most infamous. A couple of years ago the jacket (yes, it’s actually red) passed in at auction when it didn’t meet the desired reserve.

This all adds up to a simple, yet casually cool ensemble. In terms of accessories, Dean kept them to a minimum. He could sometimes be seen off-set in a pair of round, tortoiseshell glasses or sunglasses in a classic style. 

To get the look, go for classic, clean-cut, tailored items. These pieces should easily mix and match and not look scruffy when put together. The majority of his clothing was quite plain, but the emphasis really was on good fit. This is what really takes an outfit to that “effortless” look.

#2. Idris Elba: Neutral classics

Idris Elba has been acting for at least 25 years, but over the last decade or so has been regularly featured among the most stylish men. One of his style strengths is that he has developed a true sense of style, rather than following the fleeting fashion trends.

If you look at his wardrobe for both casual or formal wear, he has something of a formula for sticking with flattering neutral colors. He also tends to opt for classic, well-fitted styles that will probably still be just as stylish a decade from now.

Elba’s outfits tend to be within a palette of black, grey, white and navy. He wears fitted t-shirts as well as henley shirts, with well-structured outerwear over the top. His trousers or jeans of choice tend to be slim-fitting. He adds interest to his outfits by wearing accessories such as flat caps, or shoes with patterns on them.

Whether out casually or at an event, Elba is often pictured with one item in-particular – a very good coat. It’s a fashion “secret” that many stylish people operate by – if you wear a nice, well-fitted coat, people often don’t notice what else you’re wearing! We would always suggest that you get your coat tailored for the best possible fit. An example from our collection is the Canali Sport Coat, pictured below.

Owning a good, tailored coat is a “secret” of stylish men Click To Tweet

#3. Daniel Craig: Suave sophistication

While James Bond is known to be a sophisticated kind of guy, the sixth actor to play him, Daniel Craig has become known as a style sophisticate in his own right. 

Of course, suits have to come immediately to mind. Daniel Craig knows how to pull off a stylish red carpet suit without going overboard. He tends to favor well-fitted greys or blacks, sometimes in solid colors and sometimes with a classic pinstripe (see the grey suit he wore to the Spectre premiere, pictured below. Note: the bottom button is undone as it should be!).

Craig tends to keep accessories to a minimum. You might see a well-placed pocket square or a tasteful watch, but he doesn’t add a lot of extra embellishments to a classic suit. His color schemes are simple and smart – like Idris Elba, he largely favors a neutral palette. Get the look from us with a Canali suit and custom tailoring.

When he’s not wearing suits, Daniel Craig is often seen out and about in a pair of relaxed jeans, a fitted t-shirt and an excellent jacket a-la James Dean. He often wears flat caps and is seen in many pictures wearing the same versatile pair of brown dress shoes. Craig has also been known to pull off cardigans well, keeping a masculine aesthetic and managing to avoid looking dowdy. Once again, the key to this is good fit.

#4. Rami Malek: Tailored with flair

Rami Malek has become well-known over the last few years, taking some iconic roles and winning the best actor Oscar for Bohemian Rhapsody in 2019. His look tends to be well-tailored, yet leaves room for individual flair with interesting patterns and statement pieces.

“Polished” is a good description of his predominant look offscreen, but you’ll see him throw in a velvet jacket or a shirt with a bold pattern. He tends to mix and match, sometimes going for bold separates while other times taking a more minimalist look in all-black or dark greys. Below you can see a small sampling of what we mean, taken from a Google image search.

You can get this look by teaming classically tailored trousers and jackets with a well-fitted, bold shirt. Malek is even known to pull off the “air tie” while still looking sharp at formal events.

Another leaf out of Malek’s book is to experiment with textures (without going overboard). For example, teaming a pair of dark grey wool trousers with a silk shirt. He pulls this look off by opting out of any accessories, including a belt.

Lastly, look at separates. This means having an outfit of trousers, jacket, dress shoes and a base layer. A great way to pull this off is to have three of those items providing a backdrop for a standout piece. For example, you might team a tailored, patterned jacket with black shirt, trousers and shoes.

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Final thoughts

The men’s style icons we’ve shown here represent a range of style preferences, but they tend to have one thing in common – a focus on good fit.

This characteristic is really what can take any outfit from ordinary to fashion forward. If there’s one thing we would say to men who want to make an effort, it’s to pay attention to fit. Even if you can’t get everything tailored to fit you and color coordination, make good choices with the things you do buy. There is often a tendency for men to buy clothing that is too big.

Take inspiration from these style icons, but experiment to find your own sense of style.

Are there certain “rules” you should be following when it comes to men’s fashion?

Yes and no, from our perspective. Seasons come and go in the world of fashion and honestly, if we were all rigidly sticking to the same rules, we’d probably still insist upon “dressing for dinner” in a tuxedo every evening.

That said, we get a lot of questions about men’s clothing and how to wear it, so here we’re answering some of the most frequent:

#1. How many buttons should I have on my jacket?

People often wonder how many buttons they should have on their jacket and which ones to fasten – some or all of them?

To start with, wear the jacket that you are most comfortable in, whether that is one, two or three buttons. We generally recommend the two-button as this tends to be flattering on most people.

It might sound like an overly fussy rule, but yes there are certain norms for buttoning suit jackets and no, you don’t button all buttons on two or three-button jackets. (One-button jackets should always be fastened when standing.)

Interestingly, the trend for leaving the bottom button undone on the classic two-button jacket originated with Edward VII. The King was overweight and had trouble buttoning the lower button, so left it undone. This caught on with his subjects and has been a rule ever since. Both two-button and three-button jackets have a “never button” rule for that bottom button. Except for sportscasters on TV who listen to a higher authority despite what they look like.

When sitting down, it is recommended that you undo the buttons on two or three-button jackets. This helps to avoid creases.

#2. What colors should I choose for business wear?

This is a great question and we can see why people get confused! There are a lot of different colors and patterns that come and go in suiting, and with dress codes often leaning toward being more relaxed, you might wonder if that green suit is really okay…

Honestly, if you’re in any sort of business environment where a certain level of decorum is expected, we would stick with the classics. Most often, navy and grey are the more prevalent choices for suiting, but different shades of blue and grey have become acceptable in the less structured business environment. If you are unsure or want a “safe” choice though, stick with navy or grey.

The color you choose for yourself should be a good match for your facial and hair coloring. This doesn’t mean “grey suits for grey hair,” but that you should look to coordinate your accessories with the best shades for you. The key is accentuating what looks best on you – what colors won’t wash you out but rather accentuate the positives.

“Classic” colors for business suiting are navy and grey Click To Tweet

#3. How do I choose the right tie?

The right tie for your outfit depends on the latitude you are comfortable taking in coordinating your accessories. White and light blue shirts allow you the most flexibility.

Ties should express your personality. There are no more limits on putting check shirts with striped ties for example. Just make sure the colors all coordinate well. If the suit has a subtle added color, bring that out in your shirt and/or tie.

Today, the old rules no longer apply. You can mix patterns and colors as never before, depending on the business environment you are entering. Shoes, belts and other accessories should also match.

There are two main tie sizes to know about: the standard (3.5”) and the skinny (2.75”). If you want a classic look that doesn’t tend to change, go for the standard size. Skinny ties are trendier.

In terms of materials, a good quality silk is one of the best.

For added flair, you can choose to wear a tie in more casual environments too. Dressing down doesn’t mean not being well-coordinated and well-dressed.

#4. How long should my trousers be?

There’s a fine line when it comes to trouser length – literally within an inch or two. When your pants are too long they bunch at the bottom, look sloppy and you run the risk of damaging the hem by scraping as you walk. When they’re too short, you can look like a growing school boy!

The point at which your trousers touch your shoes is known as the “trouser break.” There are three basic ways to look at the trouser break, each flattering men of different proportions:

1. No break. This means the trousers just barely rest on top of the shoes. This length tends to suit shorter men better because it avoids cutting height off at the ankles. It’s also the preference of men who like a straight, starched presentation.
2. Medium break. This is the traditional standard for dress trousers. The hem of the trousers reaches the shoe and covers the highest point of the back of the shoe. This style tends to be suited to any situation or stature (so it can come down to a matter of preference).
3. Full break. The trouser hem has a fold that runs all the way around the leg. The cloth of the trousers rests firmly on top of the shoes and the opening of the shoe is hidden. This style is usually better on taller men or men going for a more casual look. (On taller men the extra folds appear smaller due to their longer legs).

#5. Should I wear a belt with a suit?

This question is debated with relative regularity among the sartorially-inclined. We feel that there are some times to wear one and some times not to…

When should you not wear a belt? Usually with a very formal suit such as a tuxedo. In fact, usually, tuxedo trousers don’t even have belt loops. We would also avoid a belt any time the emphasis is on sleek tailoring with emphasis away from your waistline.

Speaking of tailoring, another time to avoid a belt is as an accessory to hold up overly loose pants. This will only create a bunched up look in the middle (get those trousers fitted!).

Wear a belt when you’ve got your shirt tucked into a pair of dress trousers with visible belt loops. Of course, a belt serves a practical purpose if your suit is just a little loose (not “a lot” loose, as above!). Match your belt to your shoes for a classic look.

#6. Are tie clips still a thing?

Yes! If you like them, then wear them. The universal rule is to wear the tie clip between the third and fourth buttons of your shirt.

Another thing to note is that it’s generally recommended you avoid other embellishments such as pocket squares if you’re going to wear a tie clip. You can ruin your tailored look by overdoing the accessories.

#7. Are jeans acceptable for business casual wear?

That’s a solid “maybe!” We’ve written about what business casual means previously and have found that overall, the definition is very open to the interpretation of the business and people in question.

That said, if you don’t know whether jeans are acceptable as business casual attire in your workplace, the best thing to do is to ask. (And owners or managers, it’s up to them to define what you mean by “business casual” and ensure that your employees understand!).

In many workplaces now, it’s not uncommon for the regular dress code to involve jeans with a dress shirt and nice shoes. If you’re going to do jeans for work, wear a tidy pair that are well-fitted and in a dark wash. This helps to ensure that your look is stylish rather than sloppy!

#8. Is it okay not to wear socks with my suit?

Hmm, this is another question that can be hotly debated. You’ll see stylish men without socks in many fashion magazines or celebrity write-ups, and it really comes down to preference and the situation.

If you’re in a highly conservative profession, then the sight of your gleaming ankles might raise eyebrows. On the other hand, if it’s hot and if no one is really bothered, then maybe doing without socks is an option for you.

The right way to go without socks is not to go without them completely though. Your feet sweat and you can end up not only having an odorous pair of shoes, but you might damage them too. If you want the “no sock” look, buy some no-show or loafer socks. These will help to protect your shoes!

Final thoughts

There are many questions that frequently get tossed around when it comes to men’s fashion. While there are some “rules” that are worth observing, we’re also believers in doing what feels right for you.

It’s good to express your individual style and add your own stamp to things. Wear what is comfortable to you, but also be aware of what suits you.

Your tailor can help you to get the look you’d like.

How do you shop for your clothing today?

We’re in a time where technological advances have given us options. Fifty years ago, you couldn’t instantly go to a website and order your clothing, although you could peruse a catalog and place a mail order.

Today, you might expect that technology has taken over and that perhaps people prefer to purchase their fashion online, but surveys tell us that is not true.

What has changed? What has remained the same?

How shopping has changed 

If you are of a certain age, then you probably have memories as a youngster of shopping in specialty stores that were usually locally owned in your town or village. You bought meat from a butcher, bread from a baker and fruit from a green grocer. You visited a small clothing store or tailor for your clothing needs and they were able to arrange alterations for any off-the-rack purchases.

This was normal everywhere, although in smaller towns, it may have been their only option. Larger cities might have had department stores (such as Macy’s in New York, or Harrods in London), which sold a range of products across different departments. Department stores have been around since the late 1800s, but through that early period, they were always locally-owned and independent. Compare that to today, a department store may be made up of multiple different stores, but it’s common for them to be owned by the same parent company.

In terms of shopping for clothing, stores like Macy’s offered quality clothing, quite distinct from today’s “fast fashion” that appears in department stores. In fact, vintage favorites from those days sometimes show up and are popular among thrift shoppers or clothing exchanges today – they were usually made to last! People who lived some distance from the department store could order via a catalog, and mail order was a popular choice for those who needed it.

Supermarkets started opening up and swallowing up the small, local traders from the middle of the Twentieth Century. The very first one opened in 1930 in Queens, New York City. After that, supermarkets gradually became popular. This was linked to the fact that people had cars and refrigerators, meaning they could buy more at once and store it for longer than before. This removed the need for daily shopping at local providers which people commonly did before.

In 1956, the South-dale Center in Edina, Minnesota opened up, becoming America’s first climate-controlled indoor shopping mall. In the 1980s, mega-malls started to open up, housing all manner of stores and activities. Department store brands like Macy’s were often the anchor store of the mall. It became a cultural norm to meet friends or family at the mall for a day of shopping and activities.

In terms of shopping for clothing, malls house a variety of options, but tend to lean toward the “fast fashion” brands – where clothing is made quickly and cheaply, then sold for a fashion season. One criticism of this (besides the poor-quality and environmental impacts of waste) is that all of the brands started to look the same. They were sourcing from overseas factories that were following similar patterns and using similar fabrics. It is a “quantity over quality” model.

Online shopping was introduced with the early days of brands such as Amazon and eBay in the mid-1990s. Shopping for fashion online has grown more and more popular over the last two decades, while bricks and mortar stores have seen their patronage drop off. Some stores have gone out of business, often blaming being unable to keep up with online prices as a reason for closing.

Many malls have shut-down over the last two decades too, although there is an argument to be made that they’re not “dead”, but simply need to evolve with consumer preferences. Shoppers are looking for amenities, experiences and entertainment that enhance their shopping experience.

Today’s clothing shoppers are looking for enhanced experiences Click To Tweet

What has changed?

A consistent theme that you will see is people lament the disappearance of the more “personal touch” that came with smaller, mom and pop businesses. These local owners took pride in their stores and knew everything there was to know about their products. They tended to get to know their customers, developing a relationship and offering a personal level of service.

The chain stores found in malls or shopping centers tend to be large and impersonal by comparison. The better-managed stores make an effort to ensure that staff are well-trained and know the merchandise, but many don’t and would struggle to give the same level of personal service.

As for online shopping, this can be a real mixed-bag in terms of the level of quality or service you will receive. Sometimes when you buy online you find that the clothing that arrives on your doorstep really doesn’t look how you expected it would. Perhaps it doesn’t fit well or the quality is subpar.

On the other hand, online retailers and the large chain stores have buying power. They make bulk orders and negotiate better prices. This has meant that clothing and other goods are relatively cheaper now than ever before. However, “you get what you pay for” still applies. Cheap clothing is always going to be made cheaply, with shortcuts in terms of materials, construction and even the labor that makes it.

Where are we heading?

You might expect that online shopping will be taking over, but that’s simply not true. In fact, survey data has found that Generation Z and Millenials are not necessarily opting for the online option:

HRC Retail Advisory recently compared the shopping habits of 1,350 millennial shoppers (ages 18 to 41) and the aforementioned Generation Z (ages 10 to 20). Notable findings included that while the older crowd had shifted toward online shopping, relying less on physical retailers, the younger generation was swinging the opposite way, actually preferring to shop at brick-and-mortar establishments.

Why is this? Perhaps trends with shopping malls can offer one explanation – people are looking for the experiences that can only come with a bricks and mortar shopping experience. For example, the interaction with knowledgeable people and the entertainment or other experiences they can have along the way. It’s not that technology is eschewed either – “bricks and mortar 2.0” is described as integrating technological advances with the in-store experience.

The proof is in the data – just 27% of apparel purchases are made online. Shopping the web may offer instant options, but it lacks other conveniences, such as being able to touch the clothing, examine the quality and try it on for fit. It also tends to lack the genuine personal touch and expertise that you can get from going to a small business – like your tailor.

Shopping for men’s fashion with a tailor is synonymous with quality and being well-dressed. There is no substitute for one-on-one service and clothing that has been sewn to fit your own body well and to last. As people become more conscious about where their clothing comes from and how they might dress well and reduce waste, the tailor remains an obvious choice to meet these requirements.

Final thoughts

They often say that fashion comes in cycles, so it seems does our preference for how we shop. Over 50 years, we’ve gone from mom and pop, to mall or department store, to online shopping.

More recently, especially as people have expressed the desire to be socially and environmentally conscious, they are looking back to small local stores. The shopping malls are having to “evolve or die” so to speak, accommodating a preference for the experiential.

Throughout all of this, some things have never changed. One of those is that you can’t beat the personal service from a professional tailor when you shop for men’s clothing. It’s about quality, after all.

There was a time when black tie dress code was de rigueur, especially among the aristocracy.

If you’ve ever seen an episode of Downton Abbey, you’ll note that while “downstairs” wear the uniforms and livery of household servants at all times, those “upstairs” dress for the occasion, including changing into either black or white tie for dinner every night.

The interesting historical twist is that the tuxedo style we know today as black tie actually began as a “less formal” way to dress for dinner, adopted by the Prince of Wales in the 1860s. Gentlemen were tired of always having to mind their tailcoats and the Prince’s adoption of the new style ensured it was exported around the world (whereupon “tuxedo” was coined from the New York club of the same name).

These days, there are few expectations when it comes to dressing for dinner, especially in your own home. On the other hand, there are occasions where you’ll be expected to don black tie.

In fact, we’ve flipped the notion of “less formal” so that black tie is now one of the most formal ways of dressing (aside from white tie, where you still need your tailcoat). For many men, black tie will be the most formal way in which they’re ever expected to dress and it will only come up for occasions such as weddings, balls or formal fundraisers.

What are the “rules” for black tie in modern times? Let’s take a look:

Definition of black tie

In general, most black tie affairs will be in the evening, although you may strike an afternoon wedding or premiere that is designated black tie. The bottom line is that the event is “fancy” and men should wear a tuxedo.

For some common examples, look at pictures of awards ceremonies such as the Academy Awards or the BAFTAs. Most of the time, you will see men dressed in black tie, although you will also see some interesting variations. Fashions have changed and it’s not essential to wear all black, all the time.

If you’re not used to this level of formality, dressing for the occasion can seem daunting, but it’s a great opportunity to look your best. The key lies in the details – the fit of the tuxedo, the tie of the bow tie, to wear a cummerbund or not? 

The origins of black tie actually have it as a less formal way of dressing Click To Tweet

Required black tie clothing

If you’ve got a black tie invitation waiting, here are a few essential items:

1. The dinner jacket.

The most traditional form of dinner jacket is black with black silk or satin lapels. The lapel type of the traditional jacket is usually a notch lapel. Alternatively, you might find shawl or peak lapel jackets. Your old wedding tuxedo will not work in today’s fashion environment. Don’t think you can get away with something that is outdated.

Depending on the event, you may have some leeway with the color of your dinner jacket. Traditionally, it was more a midnight blue than black as this color appears black under artificial lighting. You might also choose a white dinner jacket in the summer, or even a pattern jacket or velvet jacket in color. Again, look at those award ceremonies – people often have a different, yet still compelling take on black tie.

As you can see, color may in fact be flexible depending on the occasion, however we’d suggest taking the traditional approach unless told otherwise for weddings. There are factors such as the photos to be considered.

In terms of trousers, black is usually the safest bet, including with a white dinner jacket. In the picture above, Armie Hammer could have chosen black trousers instead of the matching velvet pair – he still would look well put-together.

Tradition has it that the dinner jacket is always worn with the top button fastened, unless seated. It is said that this is because the Prince of Wales used to struggle to button his coat if he had overindulged at dinner, so his companions undid theirs in order to avoid offending him.

Of course, the other key to looking sharp is that your dinner jacket is well-fitted to you. Fit makes all the difference – you can look good in a sack if it has been tailored to fit you. This means paying attention to fit around the shoulders, the length of the arms and that the overall body of the jacket isn’t too tight or too loose. (Again, not your old wedding tux that is in the back of the closet.)

2. The trousers.

If you’re going for the traditional black tie look, then black (or midnight blue trousers) are the obvious choice and should match your dinner jacket if the jacket is in black.

As with the examples shown for dinner jackets, you might choose to go with another color for trousers, but black is the “safest.” We’d never pair white trousers with a tuxedo jacket for black tie wear.

Again, fit is very important to achieve a polished look. Trousers should not be cut so low that there is a gap between the waistcoat and band seam of the trousers, or a gap showing shirt. Trousers should fit comfortably at the hips and be tailored to suit.

3. Dress shirt.

The traditional black tie shirt is white, pleated, has a spread collar and holes for cufflinks on the sleeves.

Most of the time, no matter the color of the tuxedo, the shirt will be white. It too should be well-fitted to the individual.

4. Bow tie.

The traditional bow tie is black, but other color variations are acceptable these days. The exception to this is white – white bow ties are reserved for white tie events. A long tie is also acceptable if pattern and color work with your date’s outfit.

For an elegant look, bow ties should be hand-tied rather than pre-tied. If wearing a bow tie is a rarity and you’re unsure how to tie a bow tie, our associates can provide lessons or tie it for you with an easy velcro or clip connection in the back.

5. Dress shoes.

Black patent leather is the classic choice here. Something a little more fancy than the black leather shoes you would wear to the office.

6. Evening socks.

Socks should always be worn with a black tie outfit. This would traditionally be a dress sock made from a silk blend, usually in black.

7. Waistcoat (optional).

A waistcoat is an optional add-on to a tuxedo and the third piece in the term “three piece suit.” Traditionally, it too would be a matching midnight blue or black for the rest of the suit.

An important point for wearing a waistcoat is its fit and length. It should be long enough that there isn’t a visible gap to the band of the trousers. It should also be well-fitted rather than loose.

8. Cummerbund (optional).

If you’re not wearing a waistcoat, a cummerbund is another option. This broad waist sash is worn to cover the waist area, again so there is no gap to the band of the trousers.

The traditional cummerbund is usually black and pleated (pleats are worn up to catch the crumbs per days of old).

9. Accessories.

You may have cufflinks to wear with your tuxedo. The key to accessories is not to mix the metals. So your cufflinks, watch and wedding ring should ideally be of the same metal.

Final thoughts

If you’re not used to wearing black tie, the idea can seem daunting at first but in reality, it’s quite a simple style. We’d suggest sticking with a traditional approach unless your invitation says something like “black tie creative,” which invites colorful variations.

As always, your tailor is in the best position to help ensure you get a good fit and look your best for your event. Make sure you book early to be fitted.

A relaxed dress code sounds easy. You think about weekend-wear and comfort, or “smart casual” for the office.

The reality is that a relaxed dress code is far from no-effort, not if you want to keep making a great impression. It involves putting some thought into your overall appearance, even if the final result looks “easy.”

We’ve seen a shift in dress codes for men over recent years with a trend for more relaxed formality, often including some of the most formal situations. This may be good or bad, depending on your point of view, but it doesn’t mean you should let your appearance go.

“Clothes make the man,” said Mark Twain. Even earlier than Twain, the priest and theologian Erasmus said “vestis virum facit,” (literally “clothes makes the man”). It doesn’t matter if the dress code is relaxed, it’s still worth paying attention to a few rules for pulling it off well:

Get coordinated

In a world where fewer people now have to wear a full suit for work, don’t miss the chance to stand out for the care you take with your appearance. Relaxed formality should NEVER mean sloppy or unkempt. In fact, a coordinated, well-appointed ensemble matters now more than ever.

You may not have to wear a suit (although every gentleman should own at least one tailored suit!), but you can still coordinate a polished look. A sport coat, slacks and an open-neck shirt give a more relaxed impression, but also a look of being effortlessly stylish.

With the rapid change in accepted dress codes for men, remember the maxim that putting on a coordinated ensemble can elevate the spirit, extol your sense of self and help define you as a man to whom details matter. Looking good automatically makes you lift your head up and exude more confidence.

So make sure your outfits work well together. Choose trousers and shirts that you can mix and match with a sports coat for a signature look.

A coordinated outfit helps to define you, without having to say a word Click To Tweet

Pay attention to the details

Including accessories in your outfit can convey something about your personality and show that you pay attention to detail. We take a “less is more” approach – choose the two or three accessories that complement rather than overpower the outfit.

Consider jewelry such as rings or watches to go with your business casual or more relaxed outfit. A nice leather belt is always a good complement to your trousers.

You probably don’t need the formality of pocket squares, ties or cufflinks, but adding one of these is a quick way to spruce up a more casual outfit. You might need to rapidly go from your regular relaxed setting to a more formal one (such as with business meetings), so think about how you might quickly change to fit in with the new environment.

“The details” should also include your feet. Wear nice, clean shoes! People look at your shoes more often than you might think. Dirt, scuff marks and the general condition of your footwear will be noticed. It doesn’t matter if your dress code calls for a pair of Oxfords or is casual enough to allow burnished leather sneakers – keep your shoes tidy.

While you’re at it, wear socks if you want to make a good impression. There has been a trend for going without socks and it has attracted a lot of debate. In our view, going sockless, especially with your good leather shoes is sloppy. You also have to be very careful with hygiene – going sockless can lead to smelly feet and shoes.

“Dressing well is a form of good manners,” says Tom Ford. There is definitely a case to be made here!

Pay attention to fit

How well your clothes fit will make or break your outfit. Too big or too small both come off looking sloppy, no matter what you are wearing. For this reason, it’s worth having some of your key pieces tailored. Think shirts, sport coats and trousers.

Fit doesn’t always mean looking perfectly tailored – some pieces naturally call for a more boxy fit. One thing to consider here is fit for body shape; not all styles suit all people so it’s important to figure out what will flatter your own shape.

If you tend to prefer to wear clothing that will have some longevity in terms of fashion sense, the traditionalist approach suggests that clothing with a slimmer fit or more tailored appearance will last the distance.

Keep it simple

While bold logos have been making an appearance in fashion collections, this is not the sort of trend that is bound to last. One thing that never tends to go out of fashion is simplicity.

We’re talking clothing that isn’t “fussy.” Pieces that you’d be comfortable wearing to almost any occasion. They tend to have clean lines and fit well. Think of outfits such as a plain t-shirt paired with chinos, a leather belt and a pair of loafers.

Paired-back clothing is never uncool. We can look back to icons such as James Dean who managed to pull off a timeless look that is often repeated today. Being understated in clothes that are simple, yet fit well will always keep you looking good.

If you’d like, you can give a nod to fashion trends without being overtaken by them. For example, you might include one “trend” item with an outfit that is otherwise made up of classic pieces. This way you don’t end up with a wardrobe full of clothing that will never see daylight again.

It can be about comfort too. Fashion trends come and go but you often have your own favorite “look.” It’s much easier to make a good impression when you’re comfortable and confident in what you are wearing.

“Looking good isn’t self-importance, it’s self-respect.” – Charles Hix

Stick to basic colors and patterns

One reason why many people open their closets and declare they have nothing to wear is because they have a whole lot of items that are mismatched. If you have clothing colors all over the spectrum and patterns that will clash if put together, you don’t have a workable closet.

A benefit of a more relaxed dress code is its potential for simplicity, as we’ve already indicated. You can make putting an outfit together much more effortless if you coordinate your basics.

For example, start out by considering a few base colors for your key pieces. This might be black, navy, grey or neutrals for trousers, coats, jackets and shirts. You can always mix and match from complementary colors, then add splashes of other colors (such as with a scarf or a pair of socks).

Final thoughts

A more relaxed dress code doesn’t mean the absence of thought going into your outfits. In fact, getting dressed should involve the purposeful selection of an outfit because clothes mean something.

What you wear communicates so much about you without you saying a word. You can meet a relaxed dress code, but still look well put together. You can exude confidence and competence simply because you are dressed well.

On the other hand, let’s not allow “relaxed” to go too far, especially in a work setting. If you look sloppy or unkempt, what kind of messages are you sending? It’s not that you have to be a slave to fashion or spend a long time getting dressed, but investing in a few basics that work well together will make all the difference.

A modern fashion trend that includes eye-catching details.

Unbutton the top button or two and style your outfit with a pocket square to add a pop of colour.

 

Kei has neither internal canvas structure nor any lining, but a soul with a story to tell.

It speaks of hands that know how to sew he finest materials with infinite mastery.

It speaks of the work of tailors who use all their skill and passion, to transform cloth into an article of clothing with unique elegance and softness, without compromising fit.

The first impression you make when you walk into a business meeting can very much come down to what you are wearing.

While there are many great men’s fashion choices, sadly, people are let down by the outfit they are wearing. Your appearance can and does affect business deals, especially if you don’t give an appropriately professional impression.

Here are some common fashion faux pas to avoid:

#1. The unprofessional profile picture

This first faux pas may happen before you ever get the chance to meet a business contact in-person. With the amount of research that people often do online about people before meeting them, having a good, professional profile picture is a must. This goes for any place online where your business contacts are likely to see you, for example, LinkedIn profiles or website “about” or “meet the team” pages.

A “professional photo” means that you are dressed appropriately for the type of business you are in and you keep it very simple. For example, standing in your suit with a beer in your hand might signify a partier rather than a professional (unless you work in the beer industry!). Common faux pas include using grainy selfies, wearing gym gear or posting a photo that has an unprofessional or distracting background. Taking the time to have proper, professional headshots created can pay off for making the right impression.

We know we have mere seconds to make an impression in-person, and the same goes for your profile picture. Additionally, when you add in the first impression being made by a picture, people rely on all sorts of non-verbal cues to understand what you may be like as a person. A Psychology Today article discusses the “hidden” messages you might send with your profile picture. Body language plays a big role, determining whether people find you to be trustworthy.

While the professional photo is preferable, the article also shares a caution:

“To the extent that the photo appears to be staged, the desired impression will be weakened. It the photo appears too polished, the reaction may be contemptuous. Under the dominion of the digital age, distanced from all authenticity, people value a photo that, conversely, looks natural and shows the reality of the person. Such pictures make the strongest impression. Thus even if you’ve chosen to be photographed professionally, it’s worth the extra effort of finding a photographer who will produce believability from you rather than excessive slickness.”

#2. Wearing unpressed clothing

Whether you’re meeting in-person, over a video conference or via an online profile, wearing unpressed clothing of any form is a major faux pas.

The impression that wearing unpressed clothing gives is that you either don’t care much for your appearance, can’t be bothered getting acquainted with an iron or you’re too disorganized to take care of your clothes. None of these are good options for someone interested in doing business with you!

If there is no room in your schedule for laundering and ironing clothing properly, look for services that will take care of it weekly for you.

Get acquainted with an iron. Unpressed clothes are a fashion faux pas! Click To Tweet

#3. The feet faux pas

A first impression is made from head to toe, especially when you meet in-person. With that being said, it is relatively common for people to leave their feet as an afterthought.

A faux pas that has crept in frequently in the last few years is electing not to wear socks. In some circles, this may be considered the fashionable thing to do, but certainly not in the corporate world. It’s just not a professional look.

Besides fashion considerations, wearing socks in your closed-toed shoes is a health and hygiene factor. Socks help to keep your feet dry and prevent fungal infections, blisters, or unpleasant smells in your shoes.

Getting to the shoes – good quality dress shoes that are well-cared for is the standard you want. This means leather rather than cheaper alternatives and ensuring that shoes are clean and polished. It is a mistake to turn up in a polished suit while wearing scuffed shoes!

#4. Forgetting personal grooming

The most polished suit, shoes and accessories won’t make up for poor grooming! If your hair is messy or you look like you could use a razor, it’s not a good look to those you are trying to impress professionally.

While we’re at it with personal grooming, make sure the clothes you’re wearing are free of lint, crumbs or coffee stains from your breakfast. Carry a lint roller and even some portable stain removing wipes to keep your clothing looking meeting-ready.

When you’re dressing professionally, “more is better” is often how we think of it, meaning you’re better off being overdressed than underdressed. However, when it comes to grooming, some things are better with less. Cologne is one of those things. It’s a nonverbal cue that can really get up someone’s nose (quite literally!). In general, avoid strong fragrances that may offend, including things like liniments. Some people won’t like the smell, some may be distracted by the smell and others may even be allergic.

#5. Not doing your homework

“Acceptable professional dress” looks different from industry to industry and from city to city. While the Silicon Valley vibe might allow for more of a business casual look, the standard back East is definitely still to wear a tailored business suit.

Even then, avoid dressing based on generalizations about a business or location. Doing your homework first is important – what is the typical dress standard? Mirroring your client or the people you are meeting with is a strategy that usually works.

#6. Not dressing appropriately for the occasion

There are a few different faux pas we could put in this category. One that has been remarked upon by business leaders is apparent confusion between dressing for a networking event and dressing to impress a date.

If you’re in a bar or similar setting for networking, business dress is still the most appropriate. It’s a mistake to walk around with too many buttons undone or wearing your training shoes. It’s also a mistake to wear what you typically might wear to a nightclub. Keep it professional!

Another faux pas is a source of frequent confusion among people. When you’re told the dress code is “business casual,” it commonly leaves people scratching their heads or surreptitiously trying to check up on what everyone else is wearing.

Like we’ve said previously, if you’re unsure, more is always better. It’s much easier to downdress from arriving too business-professional than to dress up an outfit that is too casual. It’s a mistake to arrive wearing what you’d typically wear for a comfortable weekend.

Final thoughts

As a recent Inc article put it, “the question is not whether you care about fashion, it’s more about what you’re communicating intentionally or unconsciously through your fashion choices.”

People can and do judge you based on how you are dressed, and in a professional setting, any faux pas can cost you business deals, partnership opportunities or even promotions. In fact, research shows that people will make assumptions about someone’s personality, politics, status, age and income just from looking at a photo of their shoes. Imagine what seeing the full package in person will do?!

“Dress for success” is more than just a cliché saying, those are words of truth. While we would all hope to discern people’s abilities beyond appearance, the reality is that’s not what happens in business circles when you’re making a first impression. You usually only have one shot, so make it count!

Of all the things you wear and wash in your wardrobe, men’s dress shirts are probably the most frequently laundered.

An ubiquitous staple globally, the dress shirt spans cultures and workplaces – almost every man owns one and most would like to look good while wearing them!

If you’re not careful, it’s easy for the wear and tear of everyday use and laundering to start to show in the state of your shirts. When you’ve invested in good quality, it’s worth your while to pay attention to how your shirt is cared for and have it last the extra distance. You can look better, save money and take a more sustainable approach.

Here are some care tips you should know for looking after your dress shirts:

#1. Read the label

Okay, so this first tip isn’t exactly rocket science, but so many valuable pieces of clothing are ruined because someone didn’t read the label! In saying that, sometimes you need to decode the symbols used to fully understand how to take care of the shirt.

This handy chart from GQ is great for deciphering common symbols on clothing care labels:

Pay extra attention as to whether or not it’s safe to dry clean the shirt. Many people tend to drop a pile of shirts at the dry cleaners for the convenience of it, but not all shirts will do well with dry cleaning. This depends on the fabric make-up of the shirt – some fabrics will deteriorate with the application of dry cleaning chemicals.

If you go for the “wash and press” method at the dry cleaner’s, be aware that the pressing action in the commercial equipment can be hard on shirts. Collars or buttons often end up smashed, or parts of the shirt can be stretched.

Note also the wash and dry temperature recommendations. These are chosen because fabrics may shrink or be damaged, particularly at higher temperatures. One tip is to separate out your laundry based on fabric colors and the care of the items. You don’t want your white shirts to turn grey or pink, nor do you want to wash with fabrics which might shed lint onto them.

#2. Be wary of the dryer

Dryers can be quite damaging to your clothes. They can shrink items, cause pilling or pulling and lead to very wrinkled dress shirts that have lost their crisp edges.

If the label allows, you can put your shirt in the dryer to start the drying process, but one tip is to use it only long enough to start the drying process, not so long as to allow creases to set in. While of course your shirts should see a steamer or an iron before wear, you’re saving yourself a lot of work if you finish off the drying on a hanger.

Only leave dress shirts in the dryer long enough to start the drying process Click To Tweet

Our Eton dress shirts are a great, crease-resistant option for professional wear. The maker’s instructions are very specific, including not putting the shirt in the dryer at all. The following directions come from Eton, and will work well for other, similar dress shirts too:

1. Unbutton the shirt
2. Place in the washing machine with like colors in a mesh bag to protect buttons and shirt features. Note: do not overfill the washing machine.
3. Add fabric softener
4. Select warm water and a low spin-dry
5. Once the cycle is finished, hang the shirt on a hanger and stretch the collar, cuffs and front placket gently.

The “placket” refers to the double layers of fabric that hold the buttons and buttonholes of the shirt. Mesh clothing bags are inexpensive and usually easy to find from a good tailor, or even on Amazon. They are essential for washing delicate items too.

We would also add that it’s worth investing in good quality, wooden shirt hangers rather than relying on the old wire hanger. Wire hangers can damage clothing and add creasing around the shoulders.

#3. Take care of everyday maintenance

Your shirts will last a lot longer if you take care of them in your day-to-day activities, as well as any maintenance that may be required. For example, if you’re arriving home from work and have no more need to be dressed formally, change out of your shirt. This helps to avoid unnecessary wear and tear – no one needs to be splattering their cooking over their good dress shirts!

Protect your shirt while out eating by opting to use a napkin. It’s much better to catch that drip of sauce on your napkin than having to dab at an unsightly stain! However, if you do manage to get some kind of stain on your shirt, prompt treatment is usually the key. This means treating the stain before putting your shirt into the washing machine – most regular laundry soaps will not work effectively against stains.

Some of the tougher stains you’ll come across include sweat, red wine, coffee, juice and chocolate. Grass and mud stains are also stubborn, although we’d assume most people aren’t rolling around on the ground in their dress shirt…

There are different recommendations for different types of stains, but pretreatment is the key for all of them. It is also suggested that you test a discrete area of your shirt first with the treatment – this is to check that the treatment itself doesn’t cause damage. Marseille Soap (Savon de Marseille) is a great product to have available in your laundry, capable of treating most sorts of stains.

In terms of ongoing maintenance, catching and remedying any issues early is the key. If you’ve got a button hanging off, a simple repair with a basic sewing kit is easier than trying to find a new button!

#4. Store shirts properly

How and where your clothing is stored has a bearing on how well it lasts. The ideal environment is a cool, dark, clean and dry closet. These sorts of conditions help to prevent UV damage or color fading and slow the growth of bacteria.

You don’t have to worry about moths when it comes to your cotton shirts, but any moisture or mildew will do damage to your shirts. Mildew will literally eat cotton fibres and of course, it can leave an unpleasant, musty smell on fabric.

Consider protecting any shirts you won’t be wearing for a while by storing in a garment bag. Think about what you’re doing with them when you’re putting a shirt aside for washing too. Being bunched up in a laundry bag with your damp gym towel is not an ideal way to care for the shirt!

#5. Know how to iron your shirt

While many dress shirts are made from “crease resistant” materials, this doesn’t mean that you can eschew the iron. There’s nothing quite like the look of a freshly pressed shirt to convey a professional appearance.

Cotton and linen shirts require higher iron temperatures in order to reform their shape. It is worth investing in a good quality iron to ensure that you have the required temperature range. Higher-end irons have better quality soleplates for even heat distribution and better steam delivery systems.

Read the label of the shirt for any ironing instructions and iron the shirt in the following order:

1. Collar – iron both sides, starting with the bottom side.
2. Cuffs – unbutton and lay out flat first. Iron the inside and then the outside.
3. Iron the shirt front.
4. Iron the back of the shirt.
5. Iron the sleeves.

Final thoughts

Your high end dress shirts deserve to be well cared for, and a few simple steps will help to protect your investment and keep them going for longer.

Always read the labels before laundering, and promptly take care of any issues such as stains. As a bonus tip, avoid leaving light-colored shirts sitting in the laundry hamper for too long. This can allow any sweat and oils to set into the fabric and cause premature yellowing. We hope you get a lot of wear from your good dress shirts!

The Alpaca (Vicuqna pacos) is a species of South American camelid, similar to, and often confused with the Llama.

Alpacas are originally from the South American Andes, particularly in Peru, where they graze at elevations of 10,000 to 14,000 feet.

The fleece of an alpaca is woven into yarn for supple, breathable and extremely durable sweaters and other knitwear.

An Alpaca’s fleece is the softest at it’s neck’s underside, where Royal Alpaca fiber constitutes it’s finest 3%.

Come greet our Alpaca and Peruvian cotton expert, Enrique Rodriquez, on Saturday November 3^rd.