Suit Jacket Details Most Men Don’t Notice (But Should)

Men's Suit Jacket Styles

When buying clothes, most men want to pick a style that looks good on them and allows them to express their sense of style. These points seem to be quite important for many professionals: according to a 2016 study, American men over the age of 18 spent $85 a month on their clothing, which was actually $10 more than the spending average of American women. But when you buy designer suits, do you focus only on the big picture? Or do you take notice of the small details? As it turns out, it’s often the little features that can make a big difference.

Buttons

At the front of premium men’s suits, you’ll have a choice between one, two, or three buttons.

Most men prefer to have two buttons, as it’s a classic choice that looks good on all body types and works well for both professional and leisure events. More importantly, it is the current fashion direction.

A jacket with one button should be closed when standing but unbuttoned when you’re sitting down. With a two-button suit, follow that same rule with the top button and always leave the second button unfastened. And with a three-button suit, you can choose whether to button the top one or not, but always leave the middle one fastened and the bottom one undone.

Lapels

It’s important to know the difference between a single-breasted jacket and a double-breasted jacket when buying a tailored suit. Here, the lapels do provide important clues that can help you make a determination between the two types.

A single-breasted jacket features two equal halves that button together at the front of a jacket, often with a notch lapel. A double-breasted jacket, on the other hand, typically has peak lapels, additional buttons, and extra fabric that folds over from left to right.

In general, the width of a lapel should be chosen to suit your frame. For example, a wide lapel is best for men with a broader frame (and vice versa). Notch lapels, peak lapels, and shawl lapels are the three most common types of lapels.

Lining

When exploring the suits made by top clothing brands for men, you might never have given much thought to the lining. But in some cases, the lining material can provide you with valuable information about whether your favorite clothing brands for men are actually of superior quality.

Generally speaking, linings made of natural fibers indicate a high-quality suit jacket. Silk and Bemberg (a natural rayon) are considered to be among the best options and are quite breathable. A polyester or oil-based rayon lining will not provide breathability and are usually a sign of mass manufactured jackets.

You might also be surprised to learn that clothing brands for men that make unlined suits will charge more for this feature! Because unlined suits require the inner stitching to look absolutely impeccable, they make more time and skill to create. They’re a rare find, but they’re great for warmer climates.

Pockets

Most suit jackets will have three pockets: one on the left side of the chest (called the breast pocket) and two at the waist. There are several different types of pockets.

Jetted pockets have no flaps at all and are totally inside the jacket itself. This is the most formal type of pocket, typically found on tuxedos and other dinner jackets. On the other side of the spectrum, you’ll find patch pockets, which are often found on sports jackets, tweed blazers, and other less formal attire. Flap pockets (including angled pockets and ticket pockets) are a standard considered to be a good choice for many kinds of events.

Canvas Front

Better men’s clothing can be sewn with a full canvas lining for durability and structure. Normally, the canvas is made from horse hair and is stitched between the outfabric and the lining. A half canvas front is normally found on a less expensive suit and is sometimes “fused” between the lining and the fabric. You may saw money by buying a “fused” garment but you will give up quality sewn workmanship.

 

Next time you’re perusing the finest men’s suits at a department store or at your tailor’s shop, keep an eye out for these components. They’ll indicate whether your favorite clothing brands for men are actually showing you off to your full potential.